Chappish!

The wine's appearance in the glass is bright and clear, of a pale straw color, with steady streams of tiny bubbles. Fruit, a floral hint and yeast are evident to the nose. This is a delightful nonvintage cava, with delicate fruity flavor notes, apple and pear, with a hint of lemon peel, amid a surrounding impression of brioche. The finish is crisp and fresh. Ordinarily, I shy away from wine in a fancy bottle, but in this instance the wine is not a disappointment after the showy presentation. Serve it as an aperitif or as a dinner wine alongside fish, poultry or pastas in creamy sauces. The grapes in this wine are macabeo and parellada; the method of production is the traditional one with secondary fermentation in the bottle. Unlike some cavas these days, this one is processed by hand, not by robot, in the critical step of degorging the expended yeast from the bottle. It's a fine example of traditionally crafted sparkling wine. It would be a good o...

This is a hugely deep and rich zin. Its color in the glass is deep garnet. The nose is heady, alcoholic and cherry- and blueberry-like. The flavor is big and yet subtle, with undercurrent leathery and woody hints and a dollop of vanilla. The leading flavors are cherry and raspberry. The finish is heavy and lasting, with a tannic tang, but appropriate for a wine of this strength and gravitas. Pairs well with roasts, chops or steaks.

I lately reviewed a rather good wine that would get my vote at twenty dollars. But its liquor store price is thirty-five dollars a bottle and its restaurant price above a hundred. I do not pay for the wines I review. That is an inescapable fact of the industry. Things work that way for a reason. The purpose is to prevent a riot in which people chase each other down the street, reporters demanding their money back from wine sellers, followed by editors hounding reporters about expense accounts, followed by publishers and accountants shouting about the bottom line, and advertising men whining about everyone spoiling their "campaigns." Perhaps one wine in four gets my mention, which is what I do instead of reviewing three wines negatively. I owe good language to the vintners and distributors who have avoided riots by pulling the cork gratis. I hope to offer a good turn, in return, as they say. Let me tell you a story. In the nineteen-nineties, Carribean cigars w...

Deep amber color greets the eye. Raisins, currants and citron present themselves to the nose. The flavor is mellow but not terribly complex: mainly raisins, but with a hint of figs. The finish is remarkable: clean and surprisingly light, without the cloying heaviness found in some other ports. This is a well-made port that has been well aged. Pair it with pastries or with chocolates, or--though I have quit smoking--with fine cigars. Another good pairing for port is any tangy strong cheese of the blue-veined variety such as blue cheese, Stilton, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, so forth.

This is a wonderfully versatile side dish. Decrease the quantity of garlic to complement mild-flavored main courses. Increase it to accompany strongly savory dishes. Cook 1 pound of spaghetti according to the package directions. While that is cooking, Sautee 5 minced garlic cloves  in  1/2 cup olive oil,   in a large skillet. Don't over-cook the garlic, for that produces a bitter flavor. You want the garlic just beginning to turn golden. When the garlic is done, halt the sauteeing by taking the pan from the heat and adding  1/4 cup water.  Stir into the skillet: 3 Tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or to taste) 1 teaspoon salt Add the cooked and drained pasta to the skillet and toss to combine the ingredients. Adjust the seasoning. Serve the seasoned spaghetti alongside the entree of your choice. Some cooks liven up the presentation with some diced tomato sprinkled atop the spaghetti, or with sun-dried...

"Everyone does it" is not a good reason.

This nonvintage California sake is of the nigori type, that is, unfiltered. The producer leaves the lees in the wine bottle. You upend the bottle to mix the cloudy fermentation residue into the wine and drink it that way. Cloudy wine is thoroughly a grievous fault in the European winemaking tradition, but give this a chance. It's traditional in Japan and gives a creamy appearance and yeasty and nutty flavors to the sake. I like the unique character of unfiltered sake, and an experienced sake drinker who sampled this one with me pronounced it a good example of the type. Yaegaki Cloud has light fruity and nutty hints on the nose and a flavor reminiscent of cashews and pears. It is slightly sweet and would pair well with spicy food or a light dessert. Serve chilled.