Gruet Brut

This is an outstanding value, a well made, quite drinkable brut sparkling wine in the style of Champagne. It is from New Mexico, of all places, is made from chardonnay and pinot noir, and gets 24 months of bottle fermentation.

The pale straw color and tiny bubbles are attractive in the glass. The nose is rather simple, tart apples and bread, and that combo is reiterated in the flavor. This wine is not complex but it is well harmonized, tasty and easy to like. The flavor on the finish lingers and is--once again--of a tart apples motif, with a mineral, wet stone hint.

Serve this as you would any brut, as an aperitif or with hors-d'oeuvres, with shellfish, poultry or cream-sauced pasta, with egg dishes, or (brut is very versatile) with a seared steak.

If you are fond of Champagne cocktails, such as the French 75,  ixnay on using the expensive stuff, for in a mixed drink Gruet will work quite well, while the greater sophistication of a costlier wine would be diluted and perhaps lost altogether.

If you have Champagne tastes but not the pocketbook,  Gruet will go a long way toward sparing the bottom line. Not great but very good, not complex but not having any false notes in the flavor either, it brings a good grade sparkler in reach of a table wine budget.

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